Foaming cosmetic compositions must satisfy a number of criteria including cleansing power, foaming properties and mildness/low irritancy with respect to the skin, hair and the ocular mucosae. Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum, is known to be composed of 250.ANG. protein bundles surrounded by 80.ANG. thick layers. Hair similarly has a protective outer coating enclosing the hair fibre which is called the cuticle. Artionic surfactants can penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and the cuticle and, by delipidization destroy membrane integrity. This interference with skin and hair protective membranes can lead to a rough skin feel and eye irritation and may eventually permit the surfactant to interact with the keratin and hair proteins creating irritation and loss of barrier and water retention functions.
Ideal cosmetic cleansers should cleanse the skin or hair gently, without defatting and/or drying the hair and skin and without irritating the ocular mucosae or leaving skin taut after frequent use. Most lathering soaps, shower and bath products, shampoos and bars fail in this respect.
Certain synthetic surfactants are known to be mild. However, a major drawback of most mild synthetic suffactant systems when formulated for shampooing or personal cleansing is poor lather performance compared to the highest shampoo and bar soap standards. Thus, surfactants that are among the mildest, such as sodium lauryl glyceryl ether sulfonate, (AGS), are marginal in lather. The use of known high sudsing anionic surfactants with lather boosters, on the other hand, can yield acceptable lather volume and quality but at the expense of clinical skin mildness. These two facts make the surfactant selection, the lather and mildness benefit formulation process a delicate balancing act.
Despite the many years of research that have been expended by the toiletries industry on personal cleansing, the broad mass of consumers remain dissatisfied by the mildness of present day cleansing compositions, finding, for example, that they have to apply a separate cosmetic lotion or cream moisturizer to the skin after using a shower or bath preparation in order to maintain skin suppleness and hydration and to counteract the delipidizing effect of the cleanser.
Thus a need exists for personal cleansing products which will produce a foam which is abundant, stable and of high quality, which are effective hair and skin cleansers, which will not dehydrate the skin or result in loss of skin suppleness, and which will provide a level of skin conditioning performance in a wash and rinse-off product which previously has only been provided by a separate post-cleansing cosmetic moisturizer.